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Documentation about the Vampire hardware

V600 V2 Cap and Socket Fix

Mr Niding

Posts 267
03 Jun 2018 10:12


So, Ive grown a bit tired of my Vampire getting unseated randomly/a slight touch, and it taking a good back and forth to get it reseated (Kipper board).

Im expecting that I eventually will damage hardware (motherboard or Vampire itself) with all of this, and I would like to change the socket in addition to get the cap fix done by Retroservice (Norway).

But I would like to know exactly what hardware/components I should ask him to add/change, and which Caps to add. I believe C3 and C6 was the ones where its recommended to add new caps.

Which quality and type of caps?

And then there is the topic of the CPU socket.

A while ago I read about someone changing the socket, but do you know which type and where to get hold of it?

Thanks.


Leigh Russ

Posts 104
03 Jun 2018 10:23


I changed my socket, I used an Augat PCS-068A (it is the same socket that was fitted on my previous Furia card).

The pins are ALOT thicker than the pins on the original socket, and the holes in the PCB are extremely small so its a tight fit. It took a while of firm but gently pressing the new socket into place.

On a plus, I can lift my whole Amiga by the Vampire card without any screws being needed, and all my connection issues are gone.

I think the socket is now discontinued but can be found in eBay. I got 10 for £5 delivered.

There is also talk over here EXTERNAL LINK  that they couldn't get the Augat socket to fit, but they have recommended other sockets and provided links (the Fischer one here EXTERNAL LINK is the other good option I believe). Though i just think they weren't pushing the Augat socket into place firmly enough, as I have provided spare sockets to other people and they have fitted them without an issues, but did say it was a very tight fit.

You can see more on my issues and socket change here CLICK HERE (The socket change stuff is on the second page of the thread)



Mr Niding

Posts 267
03 Jun 2018 10:25


@Leigh Russ

Thanks for your feedback! :)


Leigh Russ

Posts 104
03 Jun 2018 10:35


Regarding the caps, I followed what the datasheet said for the AOZ1021 datasheet and Majsta advised and removed the two existing, and put 2x 22uf 16v caps in their places (i stood them on their sides so they fitted nicer on the pads). None of this through hole components on SMD pads, as thats just asking for trouble



Mr Niding

Posts 267
03 Jun 2018 11:06


I believe Ive read somewhere that we are not supposed to remove the 2 existing, but just overlay?

That said, you clearly have removed them, and replaced, with success, just making sure :)


Leigh Russ

Posts 104
03 Jun 2018 11:11


Yeah, they posted to leave them, and adding on top of the 10uf that are already there, but as the datasheet said to use two 22uf then its fine to remove them. Majsta over on the Facebook group also said this was fine and stuck a photo up showing he had done the same.

The team also showed a video of adding standard through hole electrolytic caps to the SMD pads. That really isn't ideal.

You can leave the original caps there if you want and just put a couple of SMD caps on top, but was neater to just remove and do it as it should be.

posts 6